Soak the lily buds, black mushrooms, wood-ear mushrooms, and noodles in hot water for 30 minutes. Drain and squeeze dry. Remove the tough knobs and stems from the mushrooms and slice into bite-size pieces.

Cut the noodles into 10-inch lengths. Set them aside.

Heat the oil in a pan over moderate heat. Add the shallots, garlic, and chile flakes and stir until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the sugar, soy sauce, and black mushrooms. Stir a few times, then add the chicken stock, wood ear mushrooms, and noodles.

Quickly transfer the mushroom mixture to a deep casserole dish that will fit your steamer. Place the fish on top, and then sprinkle half of the ginger on top.

Place the dish in a steamer rack. Fill a wok or steam pan with 3 inches of water. Steam the fish until it’s just done, about 5 to 7 minutes depending on the thickness. Remove from heat and garnish with the remaining ginger, scallion, cilantro, and black pepper, and serve immediately.